I
spent the weekend hanging out on a beautiful, remote beach outside of Freetown,
but lest you think I’m just on a six month vacation, I want to share some Ebola
related stories before I write about a weekend getaway to the beach. I live in
the King Tom area of Freetown, right near the King Tom cemetery which is now
known as the “Ebola Graveyard.” I knew a lot about the cemetery prior to
arriving here, but I didn’t know I’d be living next to it and I honestly didn’t
give it much thought until I’d been here for a couple of days. The cemetery has
been burial central for Ebola victims with over 4,400 bodies being buried there
since August. Of course, it’s impossible to tell how many of those people
actually had Ebola as anyone who dies is being buried as if they were an Ebola victim.
Apparently it was almost impossible to directly access our street for many
months because there were nonstop funeral processions. The elderly who know
they’re close to death continuously pray that they won’t die until after the
Ebola outbreak is over so that they won’t have to be buried in a way that violates
many customs which they believe to be extremely spiritually significant. I try
to catch a glimpse of what’s happening inside every time we pass by, but apart
from the graves directly in front, it’s difficult to see anything other than
smoke rising, presumably from the burning trash heap inside the cemetery. If
you want to read more about the cemetery and what working there is like, this
is a great article.
In
other Ebola related news, a driver based in Makeni came down with a fever on
Friday. He wanted to be sent home to Kenema! It’s not good when people working
in the response efforts who know that they should go to a holding center ask to
be transported home instead. Of course, it’s easy to tell other people to go to
a holding center, but it’s hard to know what you would do if it was you. If I
was in the US, the answer would be easy, but it’s very different here,
especially now that I’ve seen my first Ebola Emergency Holding Center which was
essentially a bunch of makeshift tent buildings that I’m thankful I only
observed from the car as we drove to the beach. Anyways, the driver did not
have Ebola, but had malaria and typhoid and the last I heard he is responding
to treatment so all is well.
The
Ebola Emergency Holding Center wasn't the only Ebola related thing I
experienced on our drive to the beach. We made a pit stop at the supermarket
before we left and before we could go inside we had to wash our hands in
chlorine water and have our temperatures taken. It’s interesting how quickly
this becomes routine (although my temperature was higher today than it's been since I got here and it's stressing me out despite the fact that my temperature was exactly what it's supposed to be - 98.6 F) and it’s fantastic that this added safety measure is in
place. After the supermarket we drove down a ridiculously bumpy road and
crossed bridges with no rails that were barely wide enough for our car until we
finally arrived at the Bahamut at Black Johnson Beach about an hour or so
later. When we got there we met the owner, Martin, and the four other weekend
guests. Martin actually lived in Cambridge for a few years so we bonded over
that and talked about going to Grantchester. While I think Grantchester is
interesting because people like Stephen Hawking, James Watson, Francis Crick,
Ernest Rutherford and Ludwig Wittgenstein spent a great deal of time there,
Martin thinks Grantchester is interesting because Pink Floyd used to go to the
meadows to do acid. Needless to say that conversation ended fairly quickly. But
Martin has put together a great little property. There are four bungalows and
people can also bring tents or hammocks and sleep on the beach. We spent most
of Saturday eating. I ate barracuda for the first time and thought it was
actually pretty good. We hung out on the beach, enjoyed the warm water and we
even saw some dolphins!
After dinner things got interesting. Martin turned on the generator so we'd have some light and music and we lit a bonfire. The
other guests were a group of four middle aged people, two of whom were British,
one of whom was Irish and one of whom was South African. The South African,
whose name was Skhool (pronounced something like “skull”), was fairly reserved,
but the other three, two of whom were married, were insane. The married couple,
Chris and Allison, have been living in Sierra Leone for thirty years. They didn’t
even leave during the war, the effects of which didn’t really reach Freetown. The
other Brit, Andrew, works for Brussels Air. Anyway, I proceeded to spend the
night watching them get completely hammered (read that in the British accent I
have in my head and your life will be better) and listening to them tell me
that I’ll love Sierra Leone. They also chatted with Martin about England,
Ireland and Spain (Chris and Allison have a house in Malaga) and where they and
their children went to boarding school. I was a little jealous of their cool
European lives and their accents, of course. We finally went to bed and I slept in a charming bungalow with a fantastic view.
My bungalow |
Inside the bungalow |
View from the bungalow |
The
next day we hung out on the beach all day, ate more delicious food and explored
the neighboring beach which is also owned by Martin. For my four beach meals
and lodging, I spent a grand total of 250,000 Leones, or about $55 (In other news, I paid $11 for a box of Fruit Loops today. Not cool, Freetown. Not cool. But I also found out that I'm getting a danger pay bonus which makes me feel less stupid for spending $11 on a box of cereal). The
currency here is a little ridiculous. The largest bill is 10,000 Leones so
paying 250,000 Leones requires you to count out a lot of bills. One of the
girls who came to the beach, Meredith, commented that it’s difficult to
function in a cash economy when the largest bill is worth $2 and it’s very
true.
We left the beach around 5:30pm on Sunday
and drove back to Freetown. Along the way there were kids that would sit along
the road and start chasing our car as we drove by. I assume this is just
because they have nothing better to do. There are some really nice houses along
the road to the beach. They’ve fallen into disrepair, but it’s obvious that
they were once either really nice houses or they were meant to be nice houses
and were just never completed. As we drove home we heard the daily Ebola update
on the radio. If you want an accurate daily update on the number of new
confirmed cases, go to nerc.sl which is the website for the National Ebola
Response Centre. We’ve partnered with them for some of our programs and they
keep a good record of what’s going on here in Sierra Leone. We finally arrived at the compound and I settled in for a relaxing evening. Overall, it was a
great beach weekend, but I’m still really hoping they fix the pool in our
compound so I can go for a quick swim after I play tennis.
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