I've never been happier to see 98.6 F on a thermometer |
After combating my illness, I decided to join Sasha and Meredith and go to Martin’s place at Black Johnson Beach for the Fourth of July. I hadn’t been to Martin’s since my very first weekend in Sierra Leone back in February, but Martin has visited us in Freetown a few times. He’s weirded me out ever since I met him, but his creepiness factor has gotten significantly higher since I discovered that he’s recently taken on a Sierra Leonean wife who cannot possibly be more than 22 years old and she’s probably even younger than that. Martin is at least 45 years old. Don’t get me wrong – Martin is a nice guy and he’s got some incredible travel stories and we bonded over our shared love of astronomy, but this whole situation with his young bride makes me extremely uncomfortable. I was, however, comforted by the fact that Meredith and Annisha also find it to be really strange. His wife, Effie, is very quiet around us so it’s hard to know what she’s really like when it’s just the two of them. This type of situation is quite common in Sierra Leone, but it begs the question – what motivates a middle aged European man who’s traveled all around the world to come settle in Sierra Leone and take a “bush wife” (as Meredith puts it) and why does he make such awkward comments about the situation? But it’s really none of my business. There is one really interesting thing that was happening on the Monday after we left. They were going to have a traditional fertility ceremony. It involved slaughtering a chicken and Effie’s grandmother coming to perform a ceremony where she would rub oils of some sort on Effie and pray that she would get pregnant. Martin doesn’t really seem like the father type to me (considering the fact that he thinks he probably has multiple children around the world and has no desire to find any of them…), but again it’s none of my business. I can still think it’s very strange though. Anyway, apart from all that the Fourth was not very exciting. We did, however, have this delightful “Product of USA” to eat and I may or may not have opened the can, ate a few and declared, much to Meredith’s amusement, “Tastes like freedom.”
Sasha
didn’t get us any fireworks (literally the one thing we wanted for the weekend)
so we ended up going to bed by like 9pm and it was insanely hot and humid so it
was really hard to sleep. We spent the next day just lounging around on the
beach and hoping it would get a little sunny which it finally did. Then I had the
joy of sitting under a thatched umbrella while it drizzled all around me and it
was literally perfect. Overall, it wasn’t how I would prefer to spend my Fourth
of July weekend (it’s amazing how patriotic you can become when doing anything
patriotic isn’t really an option), but it was pretty nice...
View on the way out of Freetown...I'm really going to miss this :-( |
The hangout at Martin's |
This sky made up for the fact that we didn't have any fireworks |
Donal
also arrived in Freetown recently. I’m not entirely sure what Donal’s job is, but he’s
Irish and he’s hilarious and that’s all that really matters. He arrived on the
day I was really sick and he came to Sasha’s for dinner the following evening.
I was still feeling quite sick and he was very drunk by the time I managed to
muster up enough energy to talk to him (whilst in my pajamas which wasn’t
awkward at all…). I had been in my room, but I heard Meredith trying to explain
the Electoral College system to Sasha and Donal so I felt the need to drag
myself out of bed to complain about what a horrendous system it is (although I
also feel that the alternative system of a straight popular vote is bad too so
I can’t win) and that obviously incited a political discussion in which Donal incorrectly
assumed I’d be voting for Hillary and was shocked to find a Republican working
for CRS. I am literally dumbfounded by the lack of conservatives in this
organization. It’s a faith based organization. You think there’d be a few
conservatives. I have yet to find one though. It’s well known that public
health is dominated by liberals so I guess I shouldn’t be that surprised.
Anyway, the point is that Donal was so shocked that he asked where I was from
and obviously when I said I was from Rhode Island he was even more shocked, but
since he was super drunk things got off topic very quickly and he started
talking about the delinquent Boston Irish who, according to him, are not real
Irish people. It was pretty funny. Fast forward to last Wednesday night in
which another, less friendly political conversation occurred. Sasha and Meredith
volunteered to host Wednesday night dinner and we finally did pizza night!! It
was fantastic. Domenic is such an awesome chef. He’s been in charge of cooking
for two of the Wednesday night dinners that I’ve been to and he has done a
great job both times. He apparently worked in a pizza shop in Sweden at one
point so he knew exactly what he was doing. He made about 20 different pizzas,
one of which had a fried egg on it which made me ecstatic. When I wasn’t
hovering around the kitchen trying to grab a piece of pizza before it
disappeared, I was sitting outside on the porch with a small group of people
just relaxing and avoiding having to talk to a million people I don’t know.
Towards the end of the night, I was sitting outside with Pat and his wife,
Hawa, and an older gentleman named Roger. I was already annoyed with Pat
because he had told me he hates the Queen. I can’t even comprehend that. While
I’d not so secretly prefer that we have a monarchy and that we still live like the Crawley’s do
in Downton Abbey, Pat is quite the socialist just like Tom on Downton. Anyway,
he decided that he felt the need to tell me that I should be a democrat because
I’m a woman from New England and that Bill Clinton was the best president we’ve
had since Kennedy. His wife was trying to get him to calm down and stop being
an idiot, but he wasn’t having it. Then Roger started telling a story about
what English and Irish relations were like when he was growing up and how the
Irish were always looked down on by the English. In the middle of the story he
mentioned that they used to call the Irish “Paddies”. Well, Pat flipped out on
Roger and started yelling at him and saying that he was being rude and he wasn’t
going to sit there and let him call him that name. He told Roger not to be rude
and poor Roger was saying how he didn’t mean anything by it. I refuse to let
anyone insult the elderly so I told Pat that he was the one being rude and he
got up and stormed away. Hawa chased after him and I sat with Roger who was
clearly very unsettled and shaken up by the whole thing. Later after Pat and
Hawa had left, I was talking with Roger and he said that Pat should have known
better than to talk to him like that, but he said, “Then again, he’s Irish…” I
guess that British/Irish relationship still isn’t great.
Last
Friday night I went to dinner at Lagoonda with Annisha and Meredith. It was
delicious as usual. On the way home Meredith and I saw a guy completely ignore
a “Road Closed” sign and just drive straight on up a hill that they’ve been
doing construction on for ages. This is pretty typical in Sierra Leone, but
Meredith was like, “Rule of law? Who needs it?!” I nearly died laughing. It’d
probably be funnier to you if you lived here. Anyway, in other random funny
quote news, Annisha was talking about questions that Meredith might get asked
in her interview and as the questions got progressively more ridiculous and
funny, Annisha says, “Tell us about a time when you tried to save the world
with no resources.” This is also probably funnier if you’ve actually worked in a
country like Sierra Leone or a situation like the Ebola response. The (not at
all funny) point is that we never have enough resources. I was shocked when I
first found out how much money we spend in a week for just one project. We are
spending millions of dollars to help people in ONE district of ONE country. I
certainly believe that ever person matters and that everyone deserves to live
at a certain standard, but when you think about how much money must be spent
all around the world on projects like this, it’s overwhelming. Sometimes it seems so futile, but when you think about the individual that you're helping, it makes it a little better knowing that your project is making a difference in their life.Last Saturday we had a delightfully American brunch. Sasha thought it was so disturbing that Meredith and I like syrup on our bacon and eggs. Clearly he doesn’t know what he’s talking about. The rest of last weekend was pretty uneventful. I met one of our new TDY-ers, Michelle. She’s from California and she’s pretty cool. Sasha and I watched tennis (after having worked from home on Friday just so we could watch the men’s semifinals) and were disappointed that Federer lost.
Anyway, this week hasn’t been too bad. Eve left which is sad. Annisha has been coming over after work most days because her boyfriend, Ahmed, is in Kenema for a week or so at the school he runs there. We’ve had some tasty food including Annisha's naan. I was also asked if I wanted a contract with CRS and I’ve been avoiding giving them an answer because I’m going to be really awkward when I say no. While I’m so glad to have had this opportunity and I’ve enjoyed working for CRS, I think it’s time to move on. Anyway, Sasha wasn’t feeling well today so we worked from home. Actually, I worked and Sasha slept. I was more productive today than I’ve been all week at the office. Tomorrow is the end of Ramadan so it’s a public holiday which is fantastic. I don’t think there’s anything better than getting a day off for a holiday you don’t even celebrate. Typically Freetown is like one big party during this holiday (Eid al-Fitr), but it will be interesting to see what it’s like tomorrow given the Ebola situation. What exactly is the Ebola situation right now? It’s not good. In recent weeks we’ve seen a spike in cases in Port Loko, Kambia and Western Area Urban (aka Freetown). In Port Loko the cases are confined to two chiefdoms and Operation Northern Push is hopefully working to stop the spread there, but the sudden, fairly large increase in cases in Freetown was unexpected given that we had gone 18 days without a new case here. I attended the Ebola Frontline meeting at UNDP this week and, after getting over the shock of the facilitator opening this high level meeting by having us mediate (clearly Ebola has made people a little crazy), I learned that we should be expecting even more cases. That’s not exactly surprising, but it’s a bit depressing. In addition to the increase in cases here, Liberia reported new cases after having been declared Ebola free back in May. That was devastating, but it’s reassuring that they seem to have things under control and were able to catch things quickly using their surveillance system. Sasha and Annisha are absolutely convinced that Ebola will never end here. I have my moments where I start to agree with them, but those pass pretty quickly. Nothing’s impossible. Ebola will end here. After it ends, it will likely come back again eventually, but stopping the current outbreak will be a huge achievement and when the next cases develop people will know what to do.
P.S. I'LL BE HOME EXACTLY ONE MONTH FROM TODAY!!!!!
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