March 4th was the one month
anniversary of my arrival in Sierra Leone. I got to mark the occasion by
finally spending some time in the field and I can tell you that getting out of
Freetown was the best thing that has happened since I’ve been here. On Tuesday,
I went to the office for a couple of hours before I headed off to Makeni. Now
Google Maps will tell you that it takes about 2.5 hours to get from Freetown to
Makeni. In Africa, however, nothing takes the amount of time that you think
it’s going to take. I got a text from our Fleet Logistics Manager, Sahid, at
10:30am telling me that the car was back from refueling and we’d be departing soon.
Being a foolish, naïve American I went downstairs about 5 minutes later
thinking we were about the leave. But that’s not how things work. I waited for
an hour and 15 minutes more before we actually left. Alusine was driving me to
Makeni and then taking Robert and Nathaniel, both of whom work on our seed
storage program, to Kabala which is about two hours further than Makeni.
Nathaniel had to go to the bank before we left which meant that we drove to the
bank, he went inside and we waited in the car for 45 minutes until he came out.
I didn’t mind the wait because I got to people watch, something that I’m not
particularly fond of doing in the US, but which is infinitely more fascinating
to me here. Once we finally got on the road to Makeni I started to get pretty
excited. The guys were all surprised at how calm I was about going somewhere
new and how I wasn’t afraid of Ebola. Don’t get me wrong – Ebola is very
serious and not something I take lightly, but if you're careful and diligent
in observing the no touching rules then you should be fine. Plus, it’s a little
silly to live in fear of an illness you’ll probably never have, isn’t it?
Before we even got out of Freetown, I was exposed to a
part of the city I had never seen before – the slums. It was unlike anything
I’ve ever seen. I’ve spent a lot of time thinking about poverty in Freetown and
it’s bothered me that I haven’t been more effected by it. The parts of Freetown
I’m usually in seem fairly well off. I don’t mean well off in the American
sense, but well off for the 5th least developed country in the
world. Sure, a lot of houses are just sheet metal or wood and there’s some
trash on the sidewalks, but overall it hasn’t seemed like there’s overwhelming
poverty. It’s just Africa. I know there is overwhelming poverty, of course, but
the outward appearance of things doesn’t make it seem like that. But the slums
are something entirely different. There were literally just fields full of
trash and what seemed like one giant sheet metal roof that must really have
just been hundreds of houses packed together. This is where Ebola is in Freetown. I haven’t
seen data on exactly where all the cases are, but I’d be willing to bet most of
them are occurring in these crowded, unsanitary conditions in which nobody
should ever have to live.
Freetown slums |
As we got over the mountains, we were driving along
beautiful, lush green valleys which I can only imagine look even more beautiful
in the rainy season. As we were driving by all this, I couldn’t help but think
“Ebola, where are you hiding?” This country is absolutely beautiful and it’s
crazy to think that this terrible disease just emerged from the bush one day
and has decimated life here. Anyway, we drove for less than an hour before
stopping again at a gas station that had a “mini mart” where I bought snacks
and lamented the fact that I couldn’t play with the cute little girls hanging
around outside. Then some adorable old man came over to the kids and picked up the baby
and was trying to get her to wave at me and it was so much fun. This is what’s
missing from life in Freetown…all we do is go to and from the office or hang out
at nice hotels with other expats, but I don’t enjoy that. I want to interact
with the locals. I know those opportunities are limited because of the
circumstances, but just this small interaction with a couple of kids and an old
man was enough to make me feel like I never want to go back to Freetown. After
leaving the mini mart, we drove for maybe ten more minutes before stopping at a
random side of the road “restaurant” (read: shack that served food) where I
felt a little hesitant about eating what I was being served because the girl
was preparing it with her hands and also because this is what I was
served...
After our delightful lunch, we got on the road and drove
for a couple more hours before finally making it to Makeni. Along the way there
were multiple roadblocks set up where military personnel or police take peoples
temperatures as they go by. These roadblocks had all been taken down, but now
that cases have been rising again they put them up again. All CRS vehicles have
an “Allow to Pass” Ebola response permit so that we don’t have to stop at these
roadblocks. Even so they made us stop at one, but only took Nathaniel’s
temperature. It was really interesting to see the roadblocks because not only
were they stopping vehicles, but they also stopped every single person that
walked by and there were so many people that it looked like a stream of
refugees fleeing from something. As we drove to Makeni, I was so happy. I saw
children playing, people pumping water and numerous other things that are more
like what I saw in Kenya than I could ever hope to see in Freetown. This is the
Africa I know and love. Freetown is just a city. But the places we were driving
by are more like the places I want to be. I don’t know how to explain it. The
only bad thing about Makeni in comparison to Freetown is that it is so hot. I
hate the heat and Freetown has been so pleasant because of the almost constant
ocean breeze. There’s none of that in Makeni and it is hot. I do not like the
heat. Although for some reason I haven’t been melting like I usually do in heat. Maybe
I’m somehow getting used to heat? That would be fantastic especially considering that March and April are the hottest months here. If I can make it to May it'll be smooth sailing from there.
We finally arrived in Makeni and I went straight to the
office. What I didn’t know until I arrived is that we are based at the Command
and Control Center (CCC) here. It’s an incredible place!! I mean, it’s just a
warehouse that’s been filled with Ebola response workers, but what’s going on
there is amazing. It’s exactly what I was hoping to be involved in when I came
here. There are people manning the telephones where alerts are called in to
report a sick or dead person. There’s an area for the people who are managing
which villages are quarantined and making sure those villages get food supplied
to them. There’s an area for all the social mobilization teams. There are maps
everywhere. There are giant dry erase boards listing new cases, details of all
burials, where each burial team is deployed to, total number of confirmed
cases, deaths, new admissions, how many cases are awaiting lab results and
more. There are British and Sierra Leonean military personnel all over the
place. Think of basically every movie that’s ever been made that is about some
catastrophe or the end of the world and think of what the command center usually
looks like in those movies. Apart from all the fancy technology, that’s
essentially what this place looks like and I absolutely love everything about
it.
The CRS office within the Command and Control Center |
Diagram of a village where 29 cases were recently discovered. All the houses with red around them are now under quarantine. |
The CCC from another angle. Along the back wall is where WHO and some CRS staff work. Upstairs is social mobilization headquarters. |
Daily and weekly burial update boards |
Map of Bombali district split into burial team zones. The map on the right also shows where burials have taken place over the course of the week. |
Case management board |
Social mobilization activities |
Daily contact tracing report |
Keep an eye out for my next post where I'll write about meeting burial team members and gravediggers, going out into the chiefdoms to pay other workers and playing in a canoe in Tambakha!!
No comments:
Post a Comment